Officially restaurant owner and chef, most assuredly, undeniably and absolutely art lover. His kitchen opens onto a large garden and his creations are prototypes of artwork on a plate. It wouldn’t be surprising if he served fluorescent green fish-eggs, clams with hokkaido pumpkin and rhubarb, or again the first asparagus of the season as a frozen dessert. The real Dufau uses mimosa oil and cardamom in his dressings, carves 100-odd kohlrabis in a day and candies red onion peels.
This Chef has travelled the globe, seen a little too much of Malaysia, Italy or New York, but mostly spent too much time around Danes — 9 years’ worth of smoked herring and Gotland lamb — to now sit still like a good boy. He’s the kind to go off with all three kids on a gourmet pilgrimage to the Barolo or naturally lure them off their video games by cooking up a feast. In Vence, this native of Draguignan runs on culinary energy, stating assertively that, in the kitchen, there is no such thing as the real way. Though, at Les Bacchanales, there is definitely his way.
For Dufau, the South of France is as beautiful as it gets! The weather, the products and the sea nearby suit him to a T. Friday mornings he’s up at 6, and off to the market. He picks the largest scorpion fish and takes the last kilo of small fry available. He then goes on to get some snail eggs, pomegranate molasses, Muscovado sugar, blue-foot mushrooms, gogi berries and bergamot lemons. And for dessert???? Small Cameroon mangoes, coconut shavings, ice cream and a miniature lemon cake…
The Bacchanales style is all about market-fresh ingredients, seasonal products and the whim of the moment. This self-taught culinary wizard picked up fish-smoking techniques here, a taste for wild herbs there, and elsewhere he learned to cook white meat pink. From the Mediterranean he takes the flavour of artichokes and its fish, the imprint of natural products and the sun. Inspired from different worlds, he tends towards his own independent and personal style.